Agata e Romeo, Rome

Agata e Romeo

Agate e Romeo is very much a family affair – Agata Parisella is the Michelin-starred chef, Romeo Caraccio manages the front of house, one of their daughters is the pastry chef, and another works in the dining room. The restaurant is small; but decorated in an art nouveau style with romantic lighting, it made for a pleasant dining environment.

The chef has a reputation for serving refined Roman cuisine with a modern twist, and indeed dishes on the menu like Piccione in crosta di pane farcito con cavolo viola e fegato grasso d’oca - Pigeon in bread crust stuffed with cabbage and foie gras and Scorfano con spuma di patate, polvere di caffè e polpa di ricci di mare – Scorpion fish with potatoes foam, coffee powder and sea-urchins, the latter my choice for main course, excited immediately.

Budino di Pecorino di Fossa di Sogliano con gelato all’ Aceto Tradizionale di Modena e fichi – Flan of aged pecorino cheese from Sogliano with balsamic vinegar ice-cream and fresh figs

I started with an antipasti of Budino di Pecorino di Fossa di Sogliano con gelato all’ Aceto Tradizionale di Modena e fichi – Flan of aged pecorino cheese from Sogliano with balsamic vinegar ice-cream and fresh figs, which was very good. The flan had a fine texture and a lovely lightness, and was complemented well by the ice-cream. Agata definitely lived up to her reputation with this dish, putting a unique spin on traditional ingredients – clever cooking it was.

Scorfano con spuma di patate, polvere di caffè e polpa di ricci di mare – Scorpion fish with potatoes foam, coffee powder and sea-urchins

My primi piatti, Gnocchi di patate con cime di rapa e guanciale – Potatoes dumplings with turnip greens and cured fat, was less impressive – it was decent enough but there was nothing unique or special about it. My main course, meanwhile, sounded interesting but turned out to be a case of intriguing on paper, unsuccessful in reality. The sea urchin couldn’t really be tasted and the coffee powder didn’t add anything to the dish.

Cinque modi di cucinare il baccala – Salt cold medley in five ways

I also had a taste of the Cinque modi di cucinare il baccala – Salt cold medley in five ways, one of the specialities of the house, beautifully presented on a plate resembling a painter’s palette. This was excellent.

For dessert, I had to have the award-winning Il Millefoglie di Agata – Agata’s millefeuille. It was alright, but I failed to see how it was any better than many of the other millefeuilles I have eaten in the past, including the one I had just two days before at Quinzi & Gabrieli

Il Millefoglie di Agata – Agata’s millsefeuille

In a nutshell…
Hit-and-miss. Agata does try to impart her own spin on things, which is commendable, but the execution wasn’t always quite up to scratch. A couple of successful dishes, the cheese flan, and the salt cod medley, did point to the potential and promise of this place, however.

6.5/10

Agata e Romeo
Via Carlo Alberto, 45 – 00185, Roma
+39 06 4466115
Average price: €100-€120
1 Michelin Star

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