You don't have to venture far in the blogosphere to find a review of Mooli's, and it almost certainly will be a positive one. As I happened to be in the area, and was looking for a place to grab a quick bite, I thought I would give it a long overdue try. Mooli's specialises in a selection of Indian-themed wraps created by head chef Raju Rawat, who trained with the 5-star Oberoi hotel group in his native India, before doing a stint in the kitchen of Atul Kolchar's Michelin-starred Benares – high pedigree indeed.
I went for two mini moolis - Paneer: crumbled paneer, carrot & tomato chutney and Goat: Punjabi goat, cumin potatoes & salsa, and to wash it down, a Mango Lassi. The wraps were prepared quickly and deposited in my tray within a couple of minutes. The gentleman who brought the wraps recommended I start with the Paneer, as it was milder, so that's what I did. He wasn't kidding - it wasn’t just mild, it was absolutely tasteless, which for Indian cuisine, with all its wonderful spices and flavours, is quite an achievement. The goat wrap was much better, and quite enjoyable in fact - the meat nice and tender, and with decent heat, but still lacking the depth of flavours you usually associate with this genre of food. The roti used for the wrap was not bad. Still, as I sat there, I couldn't help thinking to myself that the food failed, singularly, to match the shop's colourful interior.
The Mango Lassi wasn’t great either – too yoghurty, and almost devoid of any mango taste.
In a nutshell...
Mooli's is not a destination restaurant; nor is it nearly as good as its many glowing reviews would suggest. But as an alternative to the likes of Pret, it certainly has its place, and I wouldn’t be surprised if we see a few more branches popping up soon.
50 Frith Street, Soho, London, W1D 4SQ
Average Price: £5-£10